It's a rare occasion that I get emails requesting I dine at a new place just so people can see pictures of the food right away. Brindille has been the exception and I was happy to oblige for the sake of Beauty and Her Feast. With all the press leading up to the opening and sneak peeks of the menu, of course I was going as soon as I could get in. For fans of award-winning chef Carrie Nahabedian of NAHA, she has been working on Brindille for years. I'm going to lay it out on the perfectly steamed white table cloth that I've known chef Carrie for years…I can't even lie…I was so excited for Brindille to open. I didn't exactly need people emailing to encourage me to get a reservation. So, I got two a week apart.
We first went for Prince Charming's birthday, just the two of us, to celebrate a BIG birthday and BIG moments going on in our life. If there are any restaurants in Chicago to celebrate BIG moments, I can assure you, it's not only NAHA, it's now Brindille. The space, designed by Tom Nahabedian, showcases a higher level of restaurant design you often don't see anymore. Every last detail is a stunning selection but subtle enough that dare I say someone not quite so design savvy would catch the haute finishes. The space feels like a chic Parisian restaurant with shades of gray and lilac setting the tone for a modern palette. Adorning the walls are three pieces by Chicago artist Lora Fosberg whose work also hangs in NAHA. A play off the name of the restaurant, Fosberg created trees from the perspective from the ground looking up, and from my vantage point, the ideal angle to view all of the new growth, which is the meaning of Brindille. And don't forget to head to the washroom…the Maya Romanoff wall covering is to die for. I actually locked myself in the bathroom just to stare at the walls for awhile.
Moving onto the menu, I was glad (ok, thrilled) that I went twice and was able to taste a second round. Not to be overlooked is the sheer elegance of the serving pieces. Maybe because I was privy to the fact that chef Carrie met with Michael Aram to select the dinnerware and serving pieces, but I paid keen attention to each dish presented. And far and away, the oysters were beautiful and tasted heavenly. A raw oyster set on a soft-scrambled egg with leeks topped with caviar. I really wanted to lick the inside of the shell but thought better of it. Next, the king crab, spring pea and tapioca custard with shaved black truffles tasted like a perfect bowl of spring. Not one to order frog legs, chef sent them out on my first visit and I sort of squirmed around but knew I had to eat them. I don't like eating things that actually look like what they are…frog's legs. With chills up my back, Prince Charming (of course he's French and eats them) and I plowed through the plate. On my second visit, the frog legs again came out to the table and I gestured like a pro, "Go 'head, give them a try, they're delish."
But the most stellar dish on both occasions was the foie gras. Let me just say, I've learned to love foie gras through chef Carrie. I'm not sure what it is, but she knows how to present foie that's both creative and unexpected, yet isn't cluttered with absurd or wild pairings. It's definitely a must-try at Brindille.
Just about every publication is writing about the lobster Brindille and I did try it on my first visit. While I love lobster for obvious reasons, it was on my second visit that I loved all our entrees. I went with the monkfish tail, snails, yellow beans and flageolets which had depth in texture and flavor. The other diners ordered the dover sole, lamb saddle and guinea fowl. Not only was the balance of flavor profiles on each plate divine but the variety of what each dish brings to the menu is interesting. The portions, especially for French food, are substantial.
Like I said before, Brindille is perfect for special occasions. It's also perfect if you want to feel like you're the shit and you're on top of your fine dining game.
Brindille
534 N. Clark
Featured In:
Kiki is also featured on:
