It’s a rare occasion after the first course of any meal that you recognize the emphasis on the sport of dining, especially a 13 course meal. I mean, have you ever been to a meal just for the sport of it? Not like hot dogs at the ball park, where the literal is just plain obvious. But rather the figurative, to watch a chef create and embellish a composed plate. It’s like watching an athlete grab a bat, head out to the plate, cock his arm back and prepare to hit it out of the park. He might take a couple of swings but when he makes contact with the sweet spot, it soars. At dinner, it might be half way in and you’re scratching your head thinking…hmmm…but our first course at El Ideas was a game changer for the entire evening. We just knew, no matter what, it was going to be fun.
A group of us took over El Ideas by Chef Phillip Foss, and went prepared to be impressed. If you aren’t familiar with the restaurant…(really?)…let me help you. Last year, Foss decided to open a small space (started with only 10 seats and now 16), one seating a night, tasting menu, BYOB, and off the beaten path (putting it mildly). Foss & Company are like the bad ass kids that hang out in the back of the school smoking pot giving the proverbial finger to mainstream anything…except they are chefs…really creative hip ones. And all that other stuff still applies. Foss has been known to rattle a few cages in the industry but that’s not my story. My story is our night with Foss. Making the experience at El Ideas even more exceptional is the open invitation to join the chefs in the kitchen at any time during the meal. Right from the get-go, they announce, “C’mon in anytime.” You can hang out, watch up close, help plate, take photos or chat with the line. I caution, this restaurant is not for the conventional diner, and I highly recommend gathering a large group to take in the experience.
While I won’t labor over the details of each course, there were definitely highlights. So, let’s start with the initial shock. After a long cocktail hour (our own fault) we decided to play musical chairs and split from our spouses. The champagne was poured and the first plate was set. A few guests immediately remarked, “Wait, there’s no silverware?” The servers casually ignored us when Chef Foss stood before us with an insouciant disposition to describe the caviar dish. At the end of his brisk explanation, he quipped, “Oh, you’ll notice there is no flatware…figure out how to eat it!” With a swift turn back to the kitchen, the room fell silent as one guest, picked up the plate and started licking it. Yes, we licked our plates clean. The next course, flatware arrived.
Before expounding on the other courses, I would simply say, compile a fun group of friends and take over the restaurant as we did. Half way through the meal, the master of our group yelled out, “Everyone switch seats…take your napkins and drinks and move now.” As if the evening wasn’t flavorful enough already, dinner conversation reinvented itself halfway through the meal. It added another element to an already heightened epicurean adventure.
My favorite course was the “fries and ice cream” where a thinly sliced potato is fried, wonton like, filled with potato ice cream and set atop caramelized leeks and potato puree. Now, think how bland a potato is. Yet, Foss created a sweet & savory flawless presentation from a spud. Mabye I’m just a midwestern girl who loves anything potato, but this was my home run. With a large chatty group and a lot of wine, I often missed the narration of the dish being served, thus, I’m almost positive the menu I’ve included, wasn’t exactly what we tasted.
The important message here is that El Ideas is the truest of tasting menus. While you may not love each flavor profile or odd pairing for 13 courses, you can appreciate the dedication that goes into the intense thought of each preparation. I liked, I loved, I pondered…which is what a tasting menu should provide for a diner who has a sense of spirit and a love of the game.
ossetra - vodka / white chocolate / café au lait
hamachi - melon / white shoyu / cashew
fries and ice cream - potato / leek / vanilla
halibut - honey crisp / spring onion / white bean
porchetta - tomato / onion / celery
croquette - peas / iberican lomo / onion
chicken - artichoke / salsify / jus
cepes - white asparagus / charolais chevre / garlic
ham - butter / egg / chile
duck - stinging nettle / radish / raisin
explorateur - heart of palm / green almond / strawberries
pie - lime / graham cracker / cream cheese
chocolate - sugar snaps / chamomile / sicilian pistachios
Facts:
Chef/Owner – Phillip Foss
Culinary Collaborators – Chef Kevin McMullen
Dining Room Manager / DJ – Bill Talbott
Price: $135/person (between 12-14 courses)
Cuisine – Contemporary American
Beverage Program – BYOB
Dress – Relaxed
Address – 2419 W. 14th Street, Chicago, 60618
Email – [email protected]
Phone – 312-226-8144
