Dining with a purpose is a much different experience. When I say purpose, it’s not just about the meal. Think, no reservations. No wine list. And no expectations. The experience begins when you head out the door. It’s about showing up early before the line starts, bringing the right bottle of wine, and carefully selecting what you will share with your partner. There is something so much more exciting when those elements go into your evening but I’m the first to admit, it’s not for everyone. So, pick your dining companion wisely because the evening could be a total bust if you aren't game for the whole package.
I recently wrote about meeting Andrew Knowlton, the food editor from Bon Appetit magazine known as the BA Foodist. Every year, BA publishes the Top 10 Best Restaurants in America based on Knowlton’s travels around the country. My little dining experience last week…was on his list. Ruxbin, located on the west side of Chicago, is a small (32 seats), no reservations, BYOB American Bistro that draws a serious crowd, many whom work in the industry. Some nights, expect a 2 -3 hour wait for a taste of Chef Edward Kim’s carefully crafted dishes. No joke.
Prepared to fight for a table, we showed up so early that the blinds were still drawn and there was plenty of parking. Available parking was the first good sign. My foodie friend and I sat in the car until we saw the first couple show up to start “the line”. We hopped out immediately and greeted the other over-zealous diners although my goal was to be the first one in Ruxbin. I somehow wanted them to know that I was there first but I let it go.
Arriving at our table (second in line), I felt like I had already won. My advice…go early in the week and no later than 6 PM. The second good sign was the menu. It was small but impressive. Our server snuck off with our bottle of red, opened it and returned like the pro that she is working in a sought after restaurant. It was time to get this party started- they need to turn tables. We shared the Pork Belly Salad Jicama, Grapefruit, Arugula, Cornbread, Bleu Cheese, Citrus Vinaigrette and the Calamari stuffed with Chicken & Pork Forcemeat, Potato Confit, Korean Chili, Peanuts, Pickled Fennel, Pea Tendrils. I’m the only foodie on earth not obsessed with pork belly, thus, it was the one underwhelming dish for the evening. It was tough and the flavors sounded better on paper. But the calamari was stellar. It was stuffed with homemade sausage, pan seared with chili oil then topped with pickled fennel. Screaming big flavors in the best way possible.
We then moved on to the Pork Loin with Crispy Hominy & Chickpeas, Grilled Peaches, Roasted Shallots, Fried Basil, & Coffee Chili Salt and the Sablefish with Maple & Soy over Hull-less Barley, Pickled Vegetables and Black Tea Broth. Sablefish, also called Black Cod or Butterfish, has a nice flakey texture with mild flavor and pairs well with soy-based sauces. Ruxbin turned out a first-rate version of this delicacy highlighted by a sweet and salty glaze and a low profile broth of black tea. It was a dish that made it hard to put your fork down to take a breath. I know, because I didn't. The pork was perfectly cooked and was a little more expected paired with peaches but nonetheless, delicious. Desserts were lovely, fresh and the perfect finale to Chef Kim’s flavors.
While it didn’t seem to ever get too crazy like we had heard, I can see why foodies are going to great lengths to get in. Again, the menu is compact but not missing anything. I would imagine that every season, the line at Ruxbin just keeps growing in order to see what Chef Kim does with a new crop.
Ruxbin
851 N. Ashland
Chicago
312.624.8509
