Posts Tagged ‘Meatballs’

Before I arrived in La, I had contacted a few of the LA Times food writers to get an professional perspective on the restaurants. I had hoped to pluck a few words of wisdom from some insiders, like myself, on some undiscovered turf. I’ve been to LA but never with the intent on covering the food…just consuming it and laying on the beach. A few of the writers responded rather quickly and I thought I had a good story to kick off my trip but unfortunately…no reply from them in the end and no profound nuggets. So, as a sole pioneer for Beauty and Her Feast heading west, I came up with a list based on suggestions from my trusty chefs in good ole Chicago. With my teenage daughter, Lo, captive for every meal I had a full week planned that I knew she would complain! Yet, by the end of the trip, she was honestly grateful (and stuffed) for the experience, especially when we filmed and she was able to see two very different chefs create what she had eaten. She also commented that I'm a lot of work to travel with because I don't sit still for long and I'm constantly looking for food. 

I wanted to hit new places that seemed to be making a splash in LA and around the country at the moment. It’s kind of my “thing” when I travel. What better place to start than at the Four Seasons’ (relatively) new restaurant, Culina. In March 2010, the Four Seasons spent roughly $5 million renovating the former Gardens into a stunning restaurant featuring modern Italian cuisine. Chef Victor Casanova, yes…seriously that’s his name, is the executive chef with prior stints in New York and Arizona. 

First things first, the space was gorgeous. If you make your way to LA, a visit to Culina’s bar or even a taste at the crudo bar are well worth the effort. The terrace looked equally enticing but I wasn’t able to peek before leaving. The palette is earthy with browns and buttery tones but my real eye-candy were the light fixtures. In the center of the dining room hung a cluster of glass balls, all sizes casting a soft glow over diners. The crudo bar, which is attached to the cocktail bar, is sleek and feels like an urban oasis. Like any Four Seasons restaurant, I still felt like I needed to tip-toe through the dining room to get to my seat being mindful not to knock into anything. Our service was top-notch and our waiter was fully versed on the menu as I would expect. I only threw one curve ball (which is so unlike me) and I changed my order after realizing what I really had my heart set on was a big bowl of pasta and not the fish he spoke so highly of. Oops.

Our Feast

FINOCCHIONA - wild boar. fennel, SOPPRESSATA - berkshire pork. porcini and PARMIGIANO
POLPETTE - american wagyu meatballs. san marzano tomato sauce. parmigiano reggiano. basil breadcrumbs
CRUDO -  yellowtail. star anise oil. orange sea salt
LASAGNA DELLA NONNA- sausage ragu. mozzarella
PAPPARDELLE with slow-braised lamb, mint and pecorino
TORTA - chocolate

The entire menu was an elevation on Italian cuisine. Smaller portions, bolder flavors, elegant plating and a few unexpected renditions. Truly, that is my favorite way to dine Italian because it is one of the only cuisines that chefs don’t mess around with too much. This isn’t a place they pour you a plate of olive oil, you order a salad and enormous plate of pasta then lean back in your chair unable to breathe. It’s a refined experience of a traditional family-style meal.  You start with a small tasting of quality salumi, some crudo to share and a normal portion of pasta or meat course ending with an exquisite dessert. Crudo is translated to “raw” and is the Italian version of sashimi. Chef Casanova did a lovely job of pairing some surprising ingredients that make up the menu at the crudo bar. The flavors were delicate and perfect for the yellowtail that we tasted.

We weren’t leaving without the meatballs! Two to an order was a suitable serving although we had a little fork fight over the last few bites because they were absolutely succulent. Made with American waygu and very few fussy ingredients to mar the flavor, then braised in a tomato sauce, they were actually straight-forward. Solo is precisely how they should be served. 

I would tell you that the Lasagna was fabulous but I wouldn’t know nor do I have a photo because my growing teenage daughter, Lo, scarfed it down. But it looked gorgeous in it’s little baking dish smothered in cheese. My pappardelle was the winner for sure. While Lo described it as tasting like a “christmas tree”, I attempted to explain the complexities of flavoring a braised dish. Really, it was an herbaceous sauce with shredded lamb tossed with a homemade pappardelle. Simply divine and the perfect plate of pasta for a Beauty who’s studied in Italy. Culina invested in a $20,000 pasta machine and I’m damn happy I tasted some. Our dessert was fantastic but what chocolate isn’t? And for the record, I did have to lean back in my chair a little…

Culina is located in the Four Seasons Beverly Hills
300 S. Doheny Drive
Beverly Hills, CA
310.860.4000

One of my favorite weekend meals is pasta and meatballs. Ever since I was little, I have loved meatballs, meatloaf and any seasoned and shaped meat patty. (This summer, I will post a German version that Prince Charming had me learn from his childhood) It’s a good time to post my meatball sandwiches from Super Bowl Sunday last week. There is this whole meatball debate about frying vs baking. Let me just say, I go both ways. (Settle down Prince Charming, I’m talking meatballs) More recently I have taken to baking them in a 375 degree oven until they brown and then I plop them in the sauce. Why bake? For starters, it’s so much easier and less time consuming. My Italian grandmother would be appalled if she knew the meatballs I bring her at the nursing home had been baked.  Being 97 years old with very little vision, what she doesn’t know won’t hurt her, thus proving you don't compromise flavor when baking. The other nice part of baking is that you can cook the sauce while the meatballs are in the oven. It really does cut down on prep time. And don't forget the obvious…you aren't FRYING them in oil! Now, I didn’t get the best photos because I had ten people standing over me waiting for their meatball sandwiches saying, “Seriuosly, can we eat?” Oh, I also serve my sandwiches with shredded Italian cheeses and giardiniera for those who want a little spice. Also, my recipe below is simple because I don’t care for fussy meatballs.

MEATBALLS
2 lbs Ground Beef
2 lbs Ground Pork
1 C. grated Pecorino Romano, freshly grated*
2 Eggs, whisked
1 onion, chopped finely
6 cloves garlic, chopped finely
Parsley, chopped and small handful
1/2 - 3/4 c. milk
1/3 c. bread crumbs
Salt/Pepper

Heat oven to 375.
Start by sauteing onions and garlic in a little vegetable oil until soft. Put in a bowl and set aside to cool.

In a large mixing bowl, add ground meats, cheese, eggs, parsley, breadcrumbs, milk and salt&pepper. Once onions/garlic are cool to touch, add to mixing bowl.
Mix everything together be careful not to overwork the meat. If it’s very sticky, add a little more milk but not too much. Once all ingredients are mixed into the meat, form balls or mini patties and place on a cookie sheet. Hint: I make mini patties if I am using for sandwiches. Put in the oven for roughly 35 min or until nicely starting to brown.

Tomato Sauce
2- 28 oz cans chopped Tomatoes**
1 28 oz can tomato puree or crushed tomatoes
1 small can of tomato paste
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large onion, chopped finely
2 carrots, chopped
2 - 3 bay leaves
2 tbs dried basil
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
2 tbs sugar
Salt&Pepper
1 cup heave cream (optional)

Saute onions and carrots in olive oil until they start to soften. Add garlic and cook for one minute. Pour in wine and bring to a boil. Add: tomato paste, tomatoes, basil, bay leaves, sugar and season with salt&pepper. Bring sauce to a boil. I like to use a hand blender to puree the ingredients at this point. If you are going to add cream, whisk in now.  Turn sauce to a low boil. When meatballs are browned remove from oven and add them carefully to the sauce. Once the meatballs are in the sauce, make sure they are emerged as this will help them cook more evenly. I cook my sauce for a couple of hours on a low simmer and carefully stir.

The meatballs and sauce can be used over pasta or in sandwiches. For Super Bowl, I decided to serve big sandwiches with a blend of grated cheese and spicy olive salad covered in the sauce!

*I prefer freshly grated cheese to buying a pre-grated tub. The cheese seems to pack more flavor when you take the time to grate it yourself!

**I buy Muir Glen Fire Roasted Diced Tomatoes for all of my sauces.