Posts Tagged ‘Italian’

Before I arrived in La, I had contacted a few of the LA Times food writers to get an professional perspective on the restaurants. I had hoped to pluck a few words of wisdom from some insiders, like myself, on some undiscovered turf. I’ve been to LA but never with the intent on covering the food…just consuming it and laying on the beach. A few of the writers responded rather quickly and I thought I had a good story to kick off my trip but unfortunately…no reply from them in the end and no profound nuggets. So, as a sole pioneer for Beauty and Her Feast heading west, I came up with a list based on suggestions from my trusty chefs in good ole Chicago. With my teenage daughter, Lo, captive for every meal I had a full week planned that I knew she would complain! Yet, by the end of the trip, she was honestly grateful (and stuffed) for the experience, especially when we filmed and she was able to see two very different chefs create what she had eaten. She also commented that I'm a lot of work to travel with because I don't sit still for long and I'm constantly looking for food. 

I wanted to hit new places that seemed to be making a splash in LA and around the country at the moment. It’s kind of my “thing” when I travel. What better place to start than at the Four Seasons’ (relatively) new restaurant, Culina. In March 2010, the Four Seasons spent roughly $5 million renovating the former Gardens into a stunning restaurant featuring modern Italian cuisine. Chef Victor Casanova, yes…seriously that’s his name, is the executive chef with prior stints in New York and Arizona. 

First things first, the space was gorgeous. If you make your way to LA, a visit to Culina’s bar or even a taste at the crudo bar are well worth the effort. The terrace looked equally enticing but I wasn’t able to peek before leaving. The palette is earthy with browns and buttery tones but my real eye-candy were the light fixtures. In the center of the dining room hung a cluster of glass balls, all sizes casting a soft glow over diners. The crudo bar, which is attached to the cocktail bar, is sleek and feels like an urban oasis. Like any Four Seasons restaurant, I still felt like I needed to tip-toe through the dining room to get to my seat being mindful not to knock into anything. Our service was top-notch and our waiter was fully versed on the menu as I would expect. I only threw one curve ball (which is so unlike me) and I changed my order after realizing what I really had my heart set on was a big bowl of pasta and not the fish he spoke so highly of. Oops.

Our Feast

FINOCCHIONA - wild boar. fennel, SOPPRESSATA - berkshire pork. porcini and PARMIGIANO
POLPETTE - american wagyu meatballs. san marzano tomato sauce. parmigiano reggiano. basil breadcrumbs
CRUDO -  yellowtail. star anise oil. orange sea salt
LASAGNA DELLA NONNA- sausage ragu. mozzarella
PAPPARDELLE with slow-braised lamb, mint and pecorino
TORTA - chocolate

The entire menu was an elevation on Italian cuisine. Smaller portions, bolder flavors, elegant plating and a few unexpected renditions. Truly, that is my favorite way to dine Italian because it is one of the only cuisines that chefs don’t mess around with too much. This isn’t a place they pour you a plate of olive oil, you order a salad and enormous plate of pasta then lean back in your chair unable to breathe. It’s a refined experience of a traditional family-style meal.  You start with a small tasting of quality salumi, some crudo to share and a normal portion of pasta or meat course ending with an exquisite dessert. Crudo is translated to “raw” and is the Italian version of sashimi. Chef Casanova did a lovely job of pairing some surprising ingredients that make up the menu at the crudo bar. The flavors were delicate and perfect for the yellowtail that we tasted.

We weren’t leaving without the meatballs! Two to an order was a suitable serving although we had a little fork fight over the last few bites because they were absolutely succulent. Made with American waygu and very few fussy ingredients to mar the flavor, then braised in a tomato sauce, they were actually straight-forward. Solo is precisely how they should be served. 

I would tell you that the Lasagna was fabulous but I wouldn’t know nor do I have a photo because my growing teenage daughter, Lo, scarfed it down. But it looked gorgeous in it’s little baking dish smothered in cheese. My pappardelle was the winner for sure. While Lo described it as tasting like a “christmas tree”, I attempted to explain the complexities of flavoring a braised dish. Really, it was an herbaceous sauce with shredded lamb tossed with a homemade pappardelle. Simply divine and the perfect plate of pasta for a Beauty who’s studied in Italy. Culina invested in a $20,000 pasta machine and I’m damn happy I tasted some. Our dessert was fantastic but what chocolate isn’t? And for the record, I did have to lean back in my chair a little…

Culina is located in the Four Seasons Beverly Hills
300 S. Doheny Drive
Beverly Hills, CA
310.860.4000

Some days, it’s about comfort food. But everyone’s idea of comfort is relative. Mine happens to be pasta because that’s what I grew up eating…lots of pasta. During college, I studied in Florence and part of the program was helping out everyday at lunchtime in the kitchen of the school. The space was a little cantina and added to the whole experience. The cooks spoke no English so anyone in the kitchen was forced to speak Italian or sign language. Thankfully, my Italian was pretty kick-ass at the time. I offered myself up each day after class. To this day, I vividly remember learning this dish which has now become my comfort food and a dinnertime staple. I learned it in the basement kitchen of this tiny Florentine school by watching and helping which is how I pretty much learned to cook. 

Pasta Amatriciana, or more commonly on menus served as Bucatini all’Amatriciana, is my all-time favorite pasta. A few years back while visiting San Francisco, Prince Charming and I stopped off at a very romantic restaurant in Sausalito called Poggio. It was one of my favorite meals on vacation because I ordered…Amatriciana. It sparked my love for this dish again. Prince Charming loves it, my kids devour it and if you are ever invited over…remind me to cook it for you. With very few ingredients, it’s a quick dish with tons of flavor. More importantly, make sure to use quality ingredients as each element plays an important role in this sauce. I was given some artisanal pastas a few weeks ago and I knew they needed Amatriciana. The pasta was perfect as it held its shape well and cooked to a nice al dente. The Verrigni pasta I used, is made with the best mixture of grains and rigorous drying at low temperature to ensure the highest quality of pasta. This process enables it to absorb the seasonings. 

Amatriciana Sugo

6 oz of pancetta, chopped into small pieces (ask deli to slice on a 3 which is a bacon cut)

1 onion, sliced thin (I often use red but white fine too)

3 garlic cloves

1 - 2 tsp red pepper flakes

1 28 oz can chopped tomatoes*

Olive Oil

Salt/Pepper

1 lb of Bucatini or spaghetti

Pecorino or Parmigiano

Start heating the pasta water while making the sauce.

Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a large, deep skillet. Brown the pancetta making sure to break up pieces so they crisp up in the hot oil. Once pancetta is browned, add in onion. Toss around until onion is translucent and starting to caramelize, also make sure they don’t burn. Add garlic and red pepper flakes, saute for two minutes. Pour in can of tomatoes. Stir to combine everything. Season with salt/pepper. Be careful here, pancetta has some saltiness so taste as you season. The sauce will be cooked in about 30 minutes.

While the sauce is cooking, your water should have come to a boil. Drop the pasta in and cook until al dente. Times vary according to brand. Drain and toss the pasta in the skillet with the sauce. Serve with freshly grated cheese. The cheese is important because it finishes off the flavors of the sauce. 

*I always buy Muir Glen Fire Roasted Diced Tomatoes. They have a great flavor and add more depth to my sauces. 

 Viola Imports is proud to represent Verrigni Pasta. For information on where to purchase Verrigni's artisanal products, please click here.

This week I wanted to stay on top of the Chicago restaurant scene because so much is going on. It seems there is a new opening every week. With so much to try, I had to book appointments with myself and stay on track. 

Really, it started last week with the kick-off event for Chicago Restaurant Week 2011 at The Chicago Theatre. My back-up date, Snooty, tagged along for a tasting from fifteen participating restaurants. Here's the deal: over 200 restaurants (plus more than 20 in the suburbs) are offering a prix fixe lunch menu for $22 and dinner menu for $33/$44 from February 18 - 27. Restaurant Week allows diners to taste supplemental menus at a great price…get out there people. Take advantage of trying some restaurants you haven't been to yet. If you need a recommendation, email me at [email protected] or log onto www.choosechicago.com to view participating restaurants. 

This week has been a whirlwind of tastings with last night alone, I checked into four places. Let's just say, I have a hard time replying NO when asked to go out. Wednesday, I went to Hubbard Inn. Knowing it was going to be a hotspot, I called the PR firm to reserve a table for me and my single gal friend. Here's my over under on Hubbard Inn…it's going to stick around as local spot to hang out late for cocktails. While they have only been open a week, I'm not sure the food is up to snuff with some of the surrounding restaurants. That's not to say it won't get there, the menu has potential and the chef worked in some fantastic kitchens. I'll cut them some slack and revisit in a month.  I still highly recommend going, but the food may take some time to catch up to the quality of the decor. Speaking of which, it's probably the coolest looking place in Chicago. Inspired by Ernest Hemingway's journey's, Hubbard Inn is cozy with a European feel. If the bar area is open upstairs, make sure to check that out too. The space is outstanding and I love the excessive amount of light fixtures in the dining area. From the outside, it just looks kick-ass. 

Yesterday, I dragged one of my BF's around all day and she kept up pretty darn good! We stopped off the beaten path in West Town for lunch at Arami (1829 W. Chicago) which opened about four months ago. I had heard about their sushi and ramen and wanted to check it out. Plus, I needed a change of pace from the "hotspot" scene as of late. Quiet and serene, this little gem of a sushi restaurant lived up to my expectations. The owners/chefs believe that their sushi stands out because of the quality of the fish not the fancy rolls. That doesn't mean their rolls are uninvolved. Rather, they are presented beautifully and have a clean, fresh taste not stuffed with fussy ingredients. I'm not a big fan of huge maki rolls. I prefer to taste a few key flavors that meld together unexpectedly…all in one bite. We ordered:

• Hamachi Maguro: yellow tail, tuna, scallion, jalapeno, shrimp, spicy mayo
• Shrimp Tempura Asparagus: fried shrimp, asparagus, flamed spicy salmon
• Spicy Tako Springroll: spicy octopus, cilantro, crisp mixed greens in a spring roll

We also shared a bowl of their Arami Ramen wtih pork belly, braised beef, house tsukemono, kamaboko and egg. The broth was rich and the meat was tender while the egg mixed into the noodles creating an even richer texture to the broth. The waitress told us to come back for dinner because the experience and food is even better. Noted and will go again. 

Later that evening, we attended a media event at my favorite wine bar , Di Sotto Enoteca (200 E. Chestnut). It's located under Francesca's in the Gold Coast and has great small plates. I keep telling everyone if they are in the area, it's the best little hang out underground. As I was leaning back to breath after stuffing myself with the Truffled Egg Toast with Fontina Cheese (OMG, you have to try this), bruschetta and Ricotta Pot with Honey, my favorite industry gal suggested we move to their other place Davanti Enoteca for some follow-up food. Yes, you  heard me, follow-up food. Not one to say NO, we polished off our glass of wine, walked to the car and headed to Little Italy. While heading down to Taylor Street, Chef BF texted me wanting to know where I was…because he knew I was somewhere in town. It doesn't take much arm twisting to get him to meet me and we were now a party of four on our way to Davanti. Uh, geez, this is my place. They brought out a long cutting board with two small pots. They set it down and poured perfectly cooked polenta with marscapone over the cutting board. Then, they opened the second pot to smother the polenta in oxtail ragu. It was a beautiful thing. Chef and I made an "ahhh" sound and scooped it up immediately. Loved the presentation, loved the polenta and loved the tender oxtail. Davanti also prepares a focaccia that is traditional to Italy but not what we would expect for focaccia. It's more like a two layers of flatbread fired with creamy cheese in the center. This too, is one of my favorite dishes that Chef BF used to make for me at the Four Seasons years ago. Order one for the table if you live for cheese! We had the pasta with pecorino and pepper which happens to be a staple at home. I was bummed at how much better the dish is at Davanti and need to find out what I'm doing wrong. How can I not figure this simple pasta out with so few ingredients. Theirs is delish! 

Again, leaning back to breath, I get a text from Prince Charming saying, "Where are you? I'm still in the city…come meet me at Hub 51."  Ok everyone, time to button up the pants and move to our next location. We thanked the kitchen and headed to River North. However, the gang wanted to walk down to see Hubbard Inn after hearing me praise the space. My girlfriend and I desperately tried to get our bartender to crack a smile…nothing worked. Prince Charming and Chef BF ignored our flirting because they too realized, we weren't getting anywhere. So, one quick cocktail and we were on our way. 

That was a busy week with some great food. Here I am, four hours of sleep, two cups of coffee and a list of places you need to try. My first pick would be Davanti Enoteca. Although, good luck getting a table. The place is packed with foodies. 

Davanti Enoteca on Urbanspoon

One of my favorite weekend meals is pasta and meatballs. Ever since I was little, I have loved meatballs, meatloaf and any seasoned and shaped meat patty. (This summer, I will post a German version that Prince Charming had me learn from his childhood) It’s a good time to post my meatball sandwiches from Super Bowl Sunday last week. There is this whole meatball debate about frying vs baking. Let me just say, I go both ways. (Settle down Prince Charming, I’m talking meatballs) More recently I have taken to baking them in a 375 degree oven until they brown and then I plop them in the sauce. Why bake? For starters, it’s so much easier and less time consuming. My Italian grandmother would be appalled if she knew the meatballs I bring her at the nursing home had been baked.  Being 97 years old with very little vision, what she doesn’t know won’t hurt her, thus proving you don't compromise flavor when baking. The other nice part of baking is that you can cook the sauce while the meatballs are in the oven. It really does cut down on prep time. And don't forget the obvious…you aren't FRYING them in oil! Now, I didn’t get the best photos because I had ten people standing over me waiting for their meatball sandwiches saying, “Seriuosly, can we eat?” Oh, I also serve my sandwiches with shredded Italian cheeses and giardiniera for those who want a little spice. Also, my recipe below is simple because I don’t care for fussy meatballs.

MEATBALLS
2 lbs Ground Beef
2 lbs Ground Pork
1 C. grated Pecorino Romano, freshly grated*
2 Eggs, whisked
1 onion, chopped finely
6 cloves garlic, chopped finely
Parsley, chopped and small handful
1/2 - 3/4 c. milk
1/3 c. bread crumbs
Salt/Pepper

Heat oven to 375.
Start by sauteing onions and garlic in a little vegetable oil until soft. Put in a bowl and set aside to cool.

In a large mixing bowl, add ground meats, cheese, eggs, parsley, breadcrumbs, milk and salt&pepper. Once onions/garlic are cool to touch, add to mixing bowl.
Mix everything together be careful not to overwork the meat. If it’s very sticky, add a little more milk but not too much. Once all ingredients are mixed into the meat, form balls or mini patties and place on a cookie sheet. Hint: I make mini patties if I am using for sandwiches. Put in the oven for roughly 35 min or until nicely starting to brown.

Tomato Sauce
2- 28 oz cans chopped Tomatoes**
1 28 oz can tomato puree or crushed tomatoes
1 small can of tomato paste
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large onion, chopped finely
2 carrots, chopped
2 - 3 bay leaves
2 tbs dried basil
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
2 tbs sugar
Salt&Pepper
1 cup heave cream (optional)

Saute onions and carrots in olive oil until they start to soften. Add garlic and cook for one minute. Pour in wine and bring to a boil. Add: tomato paste, tomatoes, basil, bay leaves, sugar and season with salt&pepper. Bring sauce to a boil. I like to use a hand blender to puree the ingredients at this point. If you are going to add cream, whisk in now.  Turn sauce to a low boil. When meatballs are browned remove from oven and add them carefully to the sauce. Once the meatballs are in the sauce, make sure they are emerged as this will help them cook more evenly. I cook my sauce for a couple of hours on a low simmer and carefully stir.

The meatballs and sauce can be used over pasta or in sandwiches. For Super Bowl, I decided to serve big sandwiches with a blend of grated cheese and spicy olive salad covered in the sauce!

*I prefer freshly grated cheese to buying a pre-grated tub. The cheese seems to pack more flavor when you take the time to grate it yourself!

**I buy Muir Glen Fire Roasted Diced Tomatoes for all of my sauces.